DFW Well Service

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Pressure Tank Service

A failed pressure tank causes your pump to short-cycle — and short-cycling burns out pumps. Pressure tank replacement is one of the most cost-effective ways to protect your entire water system.

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Pressure tank service icon
Weatherproof well house enclosure built by DFW Well Service Pressure tank installed inside a well house by DFW Well Service
A finished well house in North Texas (left) and the pressure tank and supply plumbing inside it (right), installed by DFW Well Service.

Why the Pressure Tank Matters

The pressure tank holds a reserve of pressurized water using an internal bladder backed by an air charge. When you open a faucet, water flows from the tank — not directly from the pump. The pump only runs when tank pressure drops to the cut-in setting (typically 40 psi), which happens every few minutes under normal household use.

When the bladder fails, the tank becomes waterlogged and loses its cushion. The pump now runs every time anyone uses any water — even a quick handwash. A pump that starts and stops hundreds of times a day instead of a handful is a pump that will fail years before it should. Replacing the pressure tank ($300–$700) is cheap insurance for a $1,200–$4,500 submersible pump.

Signs Your Pressure Tank Has Failed

Pump cycles every few seconds

The clearest indicator — the pump short-cycles because there is no air cushion to buffer between pump runs.

Tank sounds solid when tapped

Knock on the upper half of the tank. Hollow = healthy air charge. Solid all the way up = waterlogged bladder failure.

Pressure drops instantly when a faucet opens

No stored volume in the tank means the pump must respond immediately to any draw — pressure falls before the pump catches up.

Pressure gauge bouncing rapidly

Watch the gauge when a faucet is running. Rapid swings between 40 and 60 psi indicate the tank cannot hold a charge.

Tank is 12+ years old

Bladder tanks typically last 12–20 years. An older tank showing any symptoms is a replacement candidate.

High electric bill

Excessive pump starts draw more electricity. A short-cycling pump can add meaningfully to monthly power costs.

What We Service

Pressure tank replacement

All tank sizes from 20 to 120 gallons. Parts stocked in service vehicles.

Pressure switch replacement

Failed contacts, burnt switches — quick fix that often resolves no-start calls.

Pressure switch calibration

Adjust cut-in/cut-out settings for optimal pump performance and pressure consistency.

Air pre-charge check

Verify and adjust tank pre-charge pressure to match your pump's cut-in setting.

Control box service

Capacitor and relay replacement when the pump won't start or start correctly.

System pressure diagnosis

Full system evaluation when the source of low pressure or poor performance is unclear.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my pressure tank has failed?
The clearest sign is rapid pump cycling — the pump turns on and off every few seconds instead of running for 1–2 minutes. This means the tank has lost its air charge (the bladder has failed) and the pump has no buffer. You can also tap the tank: a healthy tank sounds hollow in the upper half; a failed one sounds solid all the way up (water has filled the entire tank). Other signs: pressure gauge bouncing rapidly, pressure that drops the moment you open a faucet, and waterlogged tank that is heavier than it should be.
How much does pressure tank replacement cost?
Pressure tank replacement in North Texas runs $300–$700 installed for a standard 20–44 gallon residential tank, including draining the old tank, disconnecting and reconnecting fittings, and verifying the new tank's pre-charge pressure is set to match your system. Larger tanks (86 gallon+) for high-demand systems or irrigation run $600–$1,200 installed.
What size pressure tank do I need?
For most single-family homes, a 20–44 gallon bladder tank is standard. Larger tanks reduce pump cycling frequency, which extends pump life — if your current pump short-cycles (on/off every 30–60 seconds under light use), a larger tank may be the better choice even if the original was 20 gallons. Homes with irrigation systems or high simultaneous demand should consider 86 gallon or larger.
Why does a failed pressure tank burn out a pump?
Every time an electric motor starts, it draws 5–7 times its running amperage for a fraction of a second. Starting is the hardest thing a motor does. A waterlogged pressure tank with no air cushion causes the pump to start and stop hundreds of times per day instead of the normal handful. The repeated starting generates heat and electrical stress in the motor winding. A pump that has been short-cycling for weeks or months will have significantly shortened remaining life even if it still runs.
What is the pressure switch and how does it relate to the tank?
The pressure switch is a small electrical box mounted on the pipe near the tank. It monitors water pressure and tells the pump when to turn on (cut-in pressure, typically 40 psi) and off (cut-out pressure, typically 60 psi). The pressure tank provides the volume of water between those two set points — so the pump isn't constantly running to maintain pressure. When the tank fails, the pressure switch sees the full pressure swing with every cup of water drawn, triggering constant cycling.
Can you replace just the bladder inside the tank?
Some larger tanks are designed for bladder replacement. Most standard residential tanks (20–44 gallon) are sealed units where bladder replacement is not practical. At the point of bladder failure, if the tank is 10+ years old, full tank replacement is almost always the right choice — the shell and fittings are also aging, and the labor cost is nearly the same whether you replace the bladder or the whole tank.
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