DFW Well Service

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Well Pump Not Working: Troubleshooting Guide

Quick Answer

Start with the breaker and pressure switch. If both have power and you still have no water, the pump or control box has failed — call a licensed contractor.

No water from your well is a same-day emergency for most households. Before calling for service, run through these steps — many no-water calls are resolved in 10 minutes without a service truck.

Step 1: Check the Circuit Breaker

The well pump runs on a dedicated 240V circuit. Look in your electrical panel for a double-pole breaker (two linked switches side by side) labeled “Well,” “Pump,” or “Water.”

If it’s tripped, it will be in the middle position — not fully on or fully off. Reset it once by pushing it firmly to OFF and then back to ON.

Important: If it trips again immediately or within a few minutes of the pump running, do not keep resetting it. A breaker that won’t hold indicates a short in the motor, pump, or wiring — resetting repeatedly can cause a fire or damage the motor winding. Call a contractor.

Step 2: Check the Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is a small gray or black electrical box mounted on the pipe near your pressure tank. It has a preset cut-in pressure (usually 40 psi) that tells the pump to start.

  1. Open the cover (usually a snap or two screws — be careful, the terminals inside carry 240V)
  2. Look for a reset lever or button — press or flip it once
  3. Look for burnt marks, melted insulation, or corroded contacts
  4. Close the cover and wait 30–60 seconds

A burnt pressure switch is a common failure point and costs $75–$150 to replace.

Step 3: Check the Control Box

The control box is usually mounted on the wall near the pressure tank — a separate panel, not the main breaker box. Open it and look for:

  • Burnt smell or visible scorching — one or more components has failed
  • Bulging or leaking capacitor — the cylindrical component that starts the motor. A blown capacitor is one of the most common and cheapest fixes ($100–$200 installed)
  • Loose or corroded wire terminals — especially common after years of vibration or moisture

If everything looks normal at the control box but you still have no water, the motor or pump itself has failed.

Step 4: Confirm Power Is Actually Reaching the Pump

A licensed contractor will use a clamp meter at the control box to verify voltage and amperage. If voltage is present but the pump isn’t drawing current, the motor has seized or the pump impeller is locked. If no voltage is reaching the control box, the problem is upstream — breaker, disconnect switch, or wiring.

When to Stop Troubleshooting and Call

  • Breaker trips more than once
  • Burning smell anywhere in the electrical path
  • Pump runs but delivers no water (may indicate a broken drop pipe or pump pulling air from a dry well)
  • Pressure switch has been reset and doesn’t hold
  • Any visible water damage near the electrical components

What to Tell the Contractor

Before you call, note:

  • How old the pump is (check any paperwork or look for a sticker on the control box)
  • Whether there was a storm recently
  • Whether the problem came on suddenly or gradually
  • Last time you had any service on the system

This lets us bring the right parts on the first trip. We stock common pump motors, capacitors, pressure switches, and pressure tanks in our service vehicles across all 19 North Texas counties.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why would a well pump suddenly stop working?
The most common sudden-failure causes are a tripped circuit breaker (especially after a power surge or lightning strike), a pressure switch that has failed or lost its contacts, a blown capacitor in the control box, and motor failure due to age or overheating. Less commonly, the pump has seized due to sand or debris, or a wire connection has corroded or come loose.
How do I reset a well pump pressure switch?
Find the pressure switch — a gray or black square electrical box mounted near the pressure tank, about the size of a pack of cards. Open the cover (usually two screws or a snap latch). Some switches have a reset lever or button inside; flip or push it once. Replace the cover. Wait 30–60 seconds and check whether the pump starts. If the pump trips the breaker again immediately, do not keep resetting — there is a short circuit or motor failure that resetting will make worse.
What is the control box on a well pump?
The control box (also called a pump control panel) is a separate electrical box, usually mounted on the wall near the pressure tank. It contains the capacitor that starts the motor, relay contacts, and sometimes a low-water cutoff. A burnt capacitor is one of the most common fixable failures — a capacitor costs $15–$50 and replacement is a 15-minute job for a contractor. Look for a burnt smell, bulging, or discoloration on the capacitor body.
Can a lightning strike kill a well pump?
Yes — a direct or nearby lightning strike can destroy the pump motor, control box components, and the pressure switch in a single event. North Texas thunderstorm seasons (spring and fall) are the most common time for this failure. After a storm, check the breaker first, then the control box for burnt components. Surge protectors on the pump circuit can reduce risk but won't eliminate it for a direct strike.
How much does it cost to repair vs. replace a well pump?
Minor repairs — replacing a pressure switch ($75–$150 installed), capacitor ($100–$200), or pressure tank ($300–$700) — are worth doing when the pump itself is under 10 years old. If the motor or pump has failed and the pump is 12–15+ years old, replacement is usually more economical than repair. A full submersible pump replacement in North Texas runs $1,200–$4,500 depending on depth.
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